Trussardi Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear

Trussardi Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear

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How can the vision of two radical designers remodel the bourgeois codes of an Italian heritage brand into a modern, covetable, relevant new version of itself? That’s the conundrum facing Trussardi, which has appointed as creative directors GmbH’s Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby.

Their second collection, presented in the gilded salons of Palazzo Clerici, gave hints of how they’re easing into their role, after a strong first outing which was a break with the past, clean to the point of subversion. It certainly severed unnecessary ties, opening the door to a more considered, thought-out approach which was played out in today’s show.

“This time it was more about trying to develop a wardrobe that makes sense for Trussardi,” they said backstage. “It may sound boring, but we’re bringing our own vision, mixing modernity with history.” Digging into the brand’s archive was “excavation work,” they explained. “There’s lots of richness there—the exceptional leather work, the ’80s and ’90s sexy and cinched silhouettes, the sensuality, the femininity, but also a masculine glamour.”

Some of these elements were brought back for spring. Sensuality was played out in fluid dresses in liquid jersey with twisted necklines and cascading hemlines; floor-length satin gowns were wrapped around the neck, draped and ruched; slits and cut-outs opened to reveal bare skin. The best representation of leather work was a faux embossed crocodile bomber, round-shouldered and cinched, paired with a ruched miniskirt. The designers also tried their hand at denim, one of the house’s signatures, offering sculpted pieces glamorized with crystal appliqués.

“It’s a learning process,” they offered. “Absorbing and adapting to the Milanese culture is a sort of anthropological exploration. We’re learning to work with things that we don’t always like, or which make us slightly uncomfortable. Our view of history isn’t linear, rather it’s often chaotic. But the tarnished mirrors of Palazzo Clerici reflect lots of magic, too.”

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