The Garment Copenhagen Spring 2023

The Garment Copenhagen Spring 2023

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The Garment co-founders Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen departed from the story line they’ve been developing over the past few seasons—sort of sexy prep with a tomboy edge—with a spring 2023 collection that was both conventionally dressy and resort ready. The opening look was a fringed crochet bra top with a matching skirt. More dressed up, but not innovative, were a series of evening looks, dresses and two-pieces, with keyhole details, which perhaps can be explained by the fact that Roe was in Los Angeles when the collection was being developed. But really it’s the 1990s that continue to inspire the team, hence the predominance of knit slip dresses.

In expanding their offering, Roe and Eskildsen diluted their message. Part of the allure of this brand is leveraging the influencers’ much admired personal style, meaning the breadth of the collection isn’t the draw, rather it’s how authentic it feels to the Scandi style they embody. “I like the combination of something feeling elevated and feminine with a casual masculine silhouette,” Roe said in a message. “It’s the way women dress here too, you will always find a Scandi woman trying to find the perfect harmony between those two.” Exemplifying that point were the designers’ own looks, when they came out for a bow; Eskildsen put a boyfriend blazer over something mini; Roe a trad silk blouse with black jeans and high-top sneakers.

There were looks in the collection that made achieving a similar effect seem doable, like the pairing of generously cut pants (the way Katharine Hepburn preferred them) and a fringed bra. Worn with a low-waisted pin-striped straight skirt, that blouse Roe styled with denim looked subversively ironic, and updated the kind of Working Girl sexy secretary theme in a surprising and appealing way.

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