“Nobody’s speaking to the newer generation, everything feels outdated,” Colovos said over a pile of new jeans in the Vogue office. “There’s a lot of people doing denim in fashion that I like,” he clarified, “but it’s really expensive and it’s usually a small portion of what they have to offer.” Unified Unlimited, he explained, has been designed with an emphasis on “experimentation and play.” Not only are the silhouettes outside the norm of most denim labels, but the brand philosophy is unique, too. “We’re getting rid of the notion of sizing,” he said—or at least trying to encourage customers to loosen up when it comes to fit. “If you’re a women’s size 27, wear a men’s size 32.” Either way, “it has such a different attitude. We love that freedom.” That said, there’s a lot of craft work in the jeans themselves, with tailoring elements including curtain waistbands. “It’s made to be worn,” Colovos said.
As for the stretch, it’s more than just a matter of what comes around, goes around. Most of us got accustomed to the comfort of sweatpants and loungewear during the long months of lockdown. Colovos, for his part, lost his enthusiasm for the breaking-in period that rigid, unrinsed jeans require. That’s saying a lot for a one-time jeans snob who used to only buy and wear ring spun 14 ounce denim. “I never would’ve worked with stretch denim before, mostly because of the way it looks.” (Stretch denim is typically tightly woven so that the white backside of the weave doesn’t show through.) “But the technology has changed,” Colovos explained. Now, you get the comfort of stretch—and the cool factor, particularly in the mottled, acid-y fade of the 3 Year Wash.
Colovos also scores points for mindful design; the jeans are made from 30% recycled cotton, and the stretch element is partially made from recycled polyester. “Denim changes over time and it becomes better with age. These jeans will outlive us,” said Colovos, who likes the idea of young people of the future shopping for his Unified Unlimited jeans the way they do today for Levi’s from the 1950s. There’s a good chance they will. Colovos’s most discerning customer is his 17-year-old son Max. Dad reports that his teenager has been living in the trouser jeans.
Unified Unlimited jeans retail from $250 to $275. Shop them here.