Nicole Miller has been in business for almost 40 years — and since at least the ‘90s she’s been in the business of dressing cool girls like Lindsay Lohan and Kate Moss, so it may come as a surprise to some that she began her label with men’s ties. With the milestone anniversary coming up in September, she has been in a reflective mood, having recently rediscovered her immense archival collection of ties after a recent move. The ties, which ranged in hues of browns, beiges, and greens, inspired a camouflage-influenced collection. She patchworked them together into tank tops and midi dresses, using a similar technique to the one she explored in her fall 2022 collection.
When she wasn’t reaching into her archival collection, she used military camouflage, vintage patches, suede, and other deadstock fabrics to create figure-hugging bustier tops, bell bottoms, and effortless red carpet-ready gowns. “Camo you wear to fit in, the Nicole Miller girl wears it to stand out,” explained Miller at a recent appointment, accompanied by her assistant. In the past, her resort collections would feature swimsuits and beach-ready terry cover-ups, but now Miller’s focus is on a universal wardrobe. “My clothing is seasonless, [and] you can wear [it] year-round.” She adds, “The seasons don’t really change now, and it’s kind of all one season.”
These days you can find the designer reminiscing about her past runway shows on Instagram, as well as scouring Poshmark and Depop for archival looks. Who knows? They may just inspire her next collection too.